The Measure of a Man: A resource for the ladies…

Taking measurements is a fairly simple process- a soft measuring tape and some basic instructions is all you need. But, measuring the man in your life requires a little more- more permission, more convincing…

“I thought size didn’t matter…”
It is if you want to buy clothes that fit so that you look your best. Specifically, you want your guy to look his best ( a well-dressed man can be an excellent accessory!)

“But he hates shopping…”
He won’t once he knows his actual size. Knowing his actual size will make it easier (and therefore more fun) to shop. A bonus: If you know his size, it will be easier for you to shop & buy him gifts.

Tell him he has your permission to have a Fit…

Start at the top and working your way down. Don’t forget to write everything down as you go so he’ll have the list for later.

1. Collar size: Simply measure around the base of his neck. If he intends to wear the shirt with a tie, the shirt size selected should closely match his exact collar measurement. However, a shirt to be worn without a tie may be purchased slightly larger (by about a 1/2 size) for comfort and a more casual look.
2. Chest size: Have him relax his arms at his sides and measure around the fullest part of his chest with the tape measure just below his armpits.
3. Overarm Measurement: Measure the circumference of his chest and arms (at the highest point of his shoulder blades). Subtract chest measurement from his overarm measurement. This measurement can be useful when buying a jacket or sportcoat- if the difference is 7 inches or greater, we recommend buying jackets one size larger for comfort and a better fit in the upper arms and shoulders.
4. Arm: Have him bend his elbow 90 degrees and place his hand on his hip. Stand behind him and hold the tape at the center back of his neck. Measure across his shoulder to his elbow, and down to his wrist. The total length in inches is his sleeve length.
5. Waist: Measure loosely (so he can breath) around his natural waistline. Many men wear trousers well below the natural waist, under the belly if they carry extra weight around the mid-section- but this can actually make him look heavier than he actually is. For belts, choose a size 1-2 inches larger than his actual waist size.
6. Rise: Rise refers to the distance between the top of a trouser’s waistband and the top of the trouser leg’s inseam (at the crotch). Measure his favorite (and best fitting) pants by measuring along the trouser’s seam , or start from scratch (especially if his pants are too tight or too baggy through the buttocks, crotch and thighs). Guys under 5′9″ often benefit from short rise pants.
7. Inseam: An inseam can be measured using a pair of pants that fit well (see ForTheFit.com’s Style Guide for tips on perfect length). Measure from the crotch seam (where all the fabric meets), down the pant leg all the way to the end. If he does not have a pair of pants of the proper length right now, you’ll need at least pants that fit properly in the waist. From those you can judge where you want the pants to stop. Proper length may vary whether your man is wearing jeans or crisp dress pants, but never by more than an inch and a half. Also, you will want to take the inseam for each leg if you want to have custom pants made because the length may not be the same for each leg. Lastly, if his current trousers are regular rise and you are considering a switch to short rise, keep in mind that the new placement of the crotch will affect the inseam length- adjust accordingly.

And if he’s really stubborn…

• Remind him how much more fun it could be taking measurements with you, than visiting his tailor- Earl
• Bribe him- a favorite meal, a massage, whatever it takes!
• Swap- he can take your measurements next. It can’t hurt (too many women are slaves to the number on the tag- it’s important to know your size, too- Plus, how much better will it be when his gifts to you are actually the right size.)
• Because you said so.
• Feeling frisky? Offer to take measurements… wearing nothing but the measuring tape. We doubt he’ll say no.

Good luck (& Better Fit)!

The long & shirt of it: A primer on short men’s shirts

When thinking about clothing for shorter men, most people understand the need for special trousers (at least the shorter length part- short rise might still take some teaching!). What they don’t necessarily get is the need for special shirts. After all, many men 5′9″ and under shop for their shirts right off the rack and do okay. Or at least they think they do…

Often, a shorter man risks a few style pit-falls when shopping off the rack . To help, here are 5 Common Pit-falls (and their Solutions)

1) Droopy Shoulders: Depending on whether it is a dress or casual shirt, shoulder seams should rest at or within an inch or so of where the shoulder and arm meet. I see men all the time (especially in polos or camp shirts) wearing shirts where the shoulder seam is somewhere near their elbow. Shirts proportioned for shorter men are designed narrower through the shoulders to avoid this problem.

2) Dress-ed to Impress?: In general, shorter men benefit from proportioned shirts due to overall shorter length through the torso. After all, you are looking to wear a shirt- not a dress.

3) Shake Hands, not Shirt-Sleeves: Most men don’t realize that they have choices beyond 32/33 and 34/35, so they don’t think twice about the way their dress shirts fit through the sleeves. Too long? Roll them up! That’s the solution for many. But shorter men’s dress shirts offer shorter sleeves- so you can follow all those other nifty style principles like having your shirt peak out just a bit from under your suit jacket, and not be so long it obscures your knuckles. Shorter men’s proportioned Dress Shirts often are offered in sleeves starting at 30″ for a perfect fit, right off the rack.

4) Every Body is not created equal: For as many shapes of men under 5′9″, there are a few extra details to think about when selecting a great shirt. To get the perfect fitting shirt, here are some things to look for if you are under 5′9″ and…

Slim & Trim …

The Key: Proportioned Fit, Slim/Trim Fit

Look for shirts that are labeled “slim fit,” “tailored-fit,” “fitted,” or “trim fit.” These will often provide a neat, modern silhouette without the need for tailoring. A slim fitting shirt that offers a proportioned fit for under 5′9″ is also going to rest better at the shoulders, and offer a more comfortable overall length and proportions.

Wider through the chest & waist…

Better Fit for Shorter Men under 5'9"

Shirts proportioned for 5′9″ & Under that are labeled “classic-fit” or “gentleman’s cut” will offer all the benefits of a shorter men’s shirt (narrower shoulders, shorter overall length through torso and sleeves), but will retain more classic, even and wider proportions through the chest and torso for a better fit.

Muscular..

You know who you are- 5′7 but solid as a rock with a thicker neck and muscular arms. Your special requirements are met by looking for short men’s proportioned dress shirts that offer a classic or gentleman’s cut, but specific neck and sleeve lengths to match your needs. Also, ForTheFit.com offers and array of knit pique crew shirts, sweaters and camp shirts with better proportions for your particular shape.

5) Shop for You: Some of the above can be addressed through tailoring, but tailoring can be costly, time consuming, and may not achieve suitable results in all cases. Instead, consider shopping with specialty retailers who know your body shape and stock their stores accordingly.

Good luck and happy shopping,

C. Bova,

CEO, ForTheFit.com

Dear Fashion Advice Guru Guy: “Custom” is the easy answer, but not the only answer for shorter men’s clothes

In this job, I read men’s magazines regularly as if they were academic texts. As a woman in the men’s clothing business- it is one of the ways in which I can get educated in the industry, the customer, & more. There are a few of the major men’s mags that I have to say- I LOVE THEM. Great, ironic, sarcastic writing about any number of relevant (and sometimes not so relevant- but funny) topics.

The one thing that doesn’t work for me, though, is the Q&A section which is a part of nearly every major men’s publication. You know- men write in and ask a question about life or style and some allegedly knowledgeable fellow (or lady!) gives them an answer.
I have read questions submitted by shorter men many times- where to find shorter shoes, smaller shirts, a suit that fits, etc. The answers make me furious.

Small shoes? One writer suggested a custom shoemaker for upwards of $900 for the first pair. Dress shirts that don’t wear like a dress because they are so long in the tails (and everywhere else for that matter)? “Go see a tailor” is the most common answer.

So since it makes me so darn mad, here is my answer once and for all:

1. “Custom” is a great solution if you can afford it. But, too many of us can’t. And don’t confuse those mail-away custom shirt options as the real deal in men’s tailored, custom apparel (known as “bespoke”). If you haven’t been measured by a living, breathing tailor, you may well be quite unhappy with the product that arrives in the mail.

2. Tailoring – for a dress shirt, this is rarely a good option, nor is it a fair one for shorter men. It’s like a little tax (pun intended). I face the same problem as a shorter woman (I’m 5′1″)- I that I can rarely buy an item off the rack without having to factor in the time and money to get an item tailored. Plus, as my own tailor (a specialist in men’s apparel- and now a friend, seeing as how I see him so often!) explained, taking up the tail is one thing, but once you start shortening the sleeves or bringing them in if they are too bunchy, taking in the shirt at the sides for a more modern, trim fit, etc.- it gets to be too much. You’re basically reconstructing the shirt. The cost is high and even with the best tailor, the results are not ideal. For example- if you take in the sleeves to make them trimmer, it can create bunching in the shoulders- almost like the poufy sleeves in a period film). Or, the pocket placement is ll wrong because the pocket is too big and in the wrong spot for all the places you’ve taken in the shirt.

3. Find a shirt that fits off the rack. The Classix brand manufactures shirts specially proportioned for the shorter man- shorter tails, smaller pockets in the proper place on the chest, shorter sleeve lengths and an overall trimmer fit. In the coming months, ForTheFit.com will be offering some additional brands that offer the smaller men’s proportions. I’ll publish an update to this post when the new products arrive. If length is not an issue for you because you have a longer torso and arms, then be on the lookout for brands that cut their dress shirts in a slimmer silhouette. The magic words to look for on the package? “Trim” “Tailored Fit” “Slim Fit” “Modern Fit” – Try brands like Ben Sherman or even Lands End. These lines may still require shortening of the sleeves and tails, but at least the overall fit will lose some of the blousiness it is so hard for the tailor to take away.

Yours in short men’s style,

Consuelo Bova,
C.E.O. of ForTheFit.com,
“The Nation’s Premier Short Men’s Clothing Retailer”

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